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The DMA Digest is an edited gathering of information relative to DMA United's business model. With the goal of propelling deal flow and internal awareness, the criteria we use in selecting these topics is reflective of our company philosophy: innovation is born from a polycultural and multi-disciplinarian environment.

Nike sells out of Facebook Messenger sneaker drop in less than an hour

Nike is shaping up to be one of retail's first social commerce success stories. With both the Air Jordan Snapchat sellout and the company's success with Facebook Messenger's platform, Nike has had more luck with social selling than most, especially on a channel that is still coming of age.

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Why Viacom is expanding its live events

Viacom has caught summer festival fever. In June alone, the home of cable channels including MTV, Comedy Central and Nickelodeon will put on three new live events in the United States for the first time: Nickelodeon SlimeFest; a 30th anniversary concert for “Yo! MTV Raps,” the MTV show that debuted in 1988; and its first VidCon, the YouTuber convention and festival that Viacom acquired from YouTube stars and brothers Hank and John Green in February.

Those events join the BET Experience, a three-day event in Los Angeles that attracted over 130,000 people last year; and Comedy Central’s Clusterfest, with performances by comedians including John Mulaney and Jon Stewart, and artists including Wu-Tang Clan. Overall, the number of events Viacom brands will throw during the 2018 fiscal year will increase 135 percent year over year.

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DEREK LAM BELIEVES SUSTAINABILITY IS THE FUTURE OF FASHION

Derek Lam isn't afraid to admit that it's a tough time for the American fashion industry.

"If you look what's happened in Europe — who are the big brands in Europe and what are they making? — it all looks like American sportswear," the designer told the crowd gathered in Atlanta to hear him speak at Savannah College of Art and Design's FASHWKND on Saturday. "I think now, people are looking at American fashion wondering, 'What are you offering us that's new?'"

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Is LeBron James the Sneaker World's Last Real Signature Athlete?

When LeBron James announced his intention to forgo college and enter the 2003 NBA Draft, no one was surprised. His high school games were the first at that level to be televised on ESPN, and he’d graced the cover of Sports Illustrated as a junior with a headline auguring a messianic arrival: “The Chosen One.” The anticipation wasn’t just relegated to fans and the media, either. Basketball’s two titans, Nike and Adidas, engaged in a bidding war that no player before or since has come close to matching. Not even Michael Jordan.

But based off where the basketball sneaker industry is headed, LeBron isn’t just the first high school player to inspire a Travolta-and-Cage-esque faceoff between the preeminent basketball brands. He could also be the last real signature athlete.

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SpongeBob to Supreme: How Vans Became the Brand That Can Do No Wrong

Most sneaker brands have a founding myth — the Nike waffle iron, the adidas Olympic spikes. From these improbable stories come the totems of our time.

And then there’s Vans.

In a small California workshop, two brothers with a passion for skating laid the foundation for what has become a pillar of youth culture. Vans shoes aren’t just desirable — they’re authentic. And more impressively, authentically everywhere. From skate parks to mosh pits to colette Paris, Vans — both the shoes and the brand — simply belongs.

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Balenciaga is Kering's Fastest Growing Brand

Men and young "millennial" shoppers are the main drivers of a sales explosion at Balenciaga, the storied couture firm turned edgy label now posting the fastest growth rates within the Kering group, its chief executive said on Tuesday.

Millennials, the generation born between the early 1980s and mid-1990s, are fueling growth across the luxury goods industry, accounting for about a third of global sales, though brands are fighting for attention from these shoppers.

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Louis Vuitton and Nicolas Ghesquière Renew Contract

Nicolas Ghesquière has renewed his vows with Louis Vuitton.

The French luxury brand, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said on Wednesday it has renewed Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women’s collections. Specific terms of the deal were not disclosed.

The announcement cements the relationship between Vuitton and Ghesquière, who was first signed on to design its women’s line in 2013, succeeding Marc Jacobs. Under his tenure, the world’s biggest luxury brand has seen “unprecedented” growth in ready-to-wear and leather goods, Vuitton said in a statement.

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05.22.18

M.Gemi drives sales, social following with Instagram Live

M.Gemi's strategy with "Monday Drop" shows how retailers are more often trying to drive not just brand awareness but also online commerce through newer social channels like Instagram Live. By using the live video format and a recognizable influencer to detail how its shoes are made in Italy, M.Gemi can tout the quality of its products and also the pieces' exclusivity, and then link that content back to its website for people interested in purchasing.

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Saks Opens Redesigned Beauty Floor

Saks sees you, Glossier Canyon, and raises you a futuristic 32,000-square-foot beauty floor. The department store unveiled its brand new beauty floor 2.0 this morning, complete with separate Dior and Chanel spas, personalized Givenchy lipstick cases, and vignettes for tons of coveted vendors including Aesop, La Mer, Le Labo, and Face Gym (a non-invasive facial workout promising natural lifting).

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Ad agencies are forced to adjust to a new California freelance worker restriction

Agencies have long relied on freelancers to fill their ranks, but that is about to get tougher in California.

The California Supreme Court ruled in April that a worker can only be hired as an independent contractor if they perform a job that is not part of a business’ “usual course.” For instance, an agency could employ a video producer on a freelance basis if it doesn’t have an in-house video team. If, however, an agency already has a video team, that additional person would have to be hired as an employee and granted all of the benefits that come with it.

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'INTERVIEW' MAGAZINE IS FOLDING

Another print publication is coming to an end. On Monday morning came reports that Interview Magazine has folded, according to announcements made on social media by those on staff. Since its launch in 1969 by Andy Warhol, Interview has been known for its extensive coverage of fashion, film, art and music, as well as many visually striking covers.

However, Interview has been facing some challenges over the past few years. In 2016, former Editor-in-Chief Keith Pollock left the magazine for an executive director role, overseeing Architectural Digest's digital content. Shortly after, other departures from the Interview team followed, including Senior Fashion and Accessories Editor Julia Gall (who is now an Accessories Director at Marie Claire).

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THE COMPANIES THAT ARE CHANGING ONLINE SHOPPING IN A SUBTLE, BUT RADICAL WAY

You get home from work and there they are, the new pants you ordered. When you try them on though, happy anticipation turns to empty disappointment. The flowing cut that looked beachy and easy online appears downright dowdy in your bathroom mirror. Even though you ordered two different sizes, neither quite works. Back they go.

There’s something very personal about opening a package with your name on it and trying on the clothing inside—only to find that it doesn’t fit very well. The truth is, it’s not you, it’s them. By showing a garment available in different sizes on just a single—and likely very tall and very thin—body, clothing companies are failing their customers. The result: A high rate of returns for online purchases.

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‘Fast Couture’ Is the Future for Germanier

“I’m making fun of the fashion industry in a way, because I’m making the most glamorous and feminine collection out of trash,” Kévin Germanier says with a laugh, during a break from working as a junior designer at Louis Vuitton’s leather goods department.

For the past several months, the Swiss native would moonlight at his own label Germanier after a full day’s work at the French luxury giant’s Parisian headquarters. “I’d be at Vuitton from 9am to 7pm or 8:30pm, then I’d go to eat and start work at my atelier from 9:30pm until 2am,” he says. The designer will end his stretch at Louis Vuitton this month to focus full-time on Germanier, which is already making waves in the industry with its ultra-feminine and fantastical upcycled designs that are equal parts ethical and luxurious.

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Barbie, Puma Dream Up Shoe, Clothing Line

Barbie, at 59, is pretty good about keeping up with the times thanks to links with all sorts of cool kids brands. Coming up next is a big one that puts it in line with streetwear’s popularity: A collaboration with Puma that’s due out in late fall that has the two brands linked on a collection for women and girls.

“Barbie is a really exciting canvas for brands to play with and we love our partnerships and we love working with partners and Puma represents a really exciting, iconic brand similar to Barbie,” said Lisa McKnight, senior vice president and general manager of Mattel Inc.’s Barbie.

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05.21.18

Here’s What the Non-Royals Wore to the Royal Wedding

By now, we know that Meghan Markle defied expectations by choosing Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy to design her wedding gown. But Markle was far from the only American — and certainly not the only celebrity — in St. George’s Chapel this morning. Here’s what everybody in attendance who doesn’t have an official royal title wore.

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How the Financial Times uses Instagram Stories as a traffic driver

The Financial Times has been steadily cultivating a following of younger, new audiences on Instagram after giving the platform renewed focus in 2016. Since then, it’s been linking back to its site through Instagram Stories, driving traffic and ultimately subscriptions.

The FT posts between two and four Instagram Stories a week as a self-contained narrative based on a published piece. Previously, the FT told Digiday that Stories on dense topics like bitcoin and discussions on interest rates that were a dozen clips long typically got a completion rate of 50 percent. But getting the production to a standard the FT is happy with has taken time to perfect.

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Halo Awards Salute Leading Corporate Social Initiatives and Cause Marketing

Each year, the Engage for Good Halo Awards honor corporate social initiatives and cause marketing, showcasing outstanding work. At this year’s ceremony in Chicago on May 23 and 24, Salesforce and Save the Children will receive Golden Halo Awards for overall excellence with other campaigns honored with category-specific awards. For detailed write-ups, go to: www.engageforgood.com/halo-awards.

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Look what came in the post: the rise of subscription shopping

Welcome to the shopless shop, where customers pay for decisions to be taken out of their hands. Since 2014 the number of visitors to subscription shopping websites has grown by 800%. Customers receive a “curated box” of items of beauty products, clothes for work, even toys for their pets. The companies’ success (in the US they’re booming) lies in the surprise. Today, if you know what you want, you can buy it on your phone in a single click. If, instead, you simply want… something, the subscription box promises a personalised experience from the gift-ish unwrapping to the possibility that the contents inside will change your life. Could this be the future of shopping?

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Fashion’s Woman Problem

On Monday, just days after its graduation ceremony, Parsons School of Design will hold a gala benefit, complete with Solange Knowles, a student fashion show, prizes — and a room filled with women.

Eighty-five percent of the graduating class of fashion majors is female, just as it is at the other major New York fashion schools: the Fashion Institute of Technology, where 86 percent of the graduating class is female, and Pratt, where 54 of the 58 graduating fashion majors are women.

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Why Rappers Are Fashion’s New Royalty

Cardi B and Anna Wintour? It was this unlikely front-row pairing that got the fashion flock buzzing when American designer Alexander Wang presented his Autumn/Winter 2018 collection at the old Condé Nast offices high above New York’s Times Square in February. After all, the seat next to Wintour, the most powerful figure in fashion, is usually filled by fellow magazine editors, industry chief executives, Hollywood stars — even royalty.

While Wang has long been a fan of hip-hop, the placement of the 25-year-old female rapper — a Bronx native who broke out in 2017 after her track “Bodak Yellow” took the number one position on the Billboard Hot 100 Chart — speaks volumes about how the wider fashion industry has changed its stance on hip-hop, which, in December, surpassed rock to become the most popular music genre in the US.

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WHAT IMPACT WILL THE ROBOT REVOLUTION HAVE ON THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

The robots are coming! The robots are coming!

They're vacuuming the living room. They're having sex. They're building us homes on the moon. Everyone is talking about robots, and the fashion industry is no exception.

At this week's Copenhagen Fashion Summit, a group of panelists speculated about the various impacts that robotics, automation and A.I. may have on the global apparel industry in coming years, highlighting the plight of today's human workers.

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Meghan Markle Picks Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller for Her Wedding Dress

Duty and discretion.

Meghan Markle, who became Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Sussex earlier this morning, telegraphed some very powerful messages to the British public — and the world — about the sort of royal she wants to be.

Stepping out of a vintage Rolls-Royce in a minimal and an unembellished Givenchy Haute Couture dress by the British designer Clare Waight Keller, a diamond tiara on loan from Queen Elizabeth, and a veil bearing symbols of the Commonwealth, this bride was out to prove that she’s all about simplicity, heritage, respecting tradition — and serving her public.

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05.18.18

14 Predictions for the future of media

The media landscape is almost shifting more quickly than consumers can keep up.

But certain trends have emerged that will carry the media industry into the future.

For the past eight years, IGNITION, Business Insider's flagship conference, has collected the best minds in media and technology to share what they see as the future. Through unscripted interviews, cutting-edge demos, and insights from industry pioneers, attendees learn what key trends to be aware of and what they need to do to stay ahead.

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Adidas Originals is taking a less-is-more approach to digital

Adidas streetwear brand Adidas Originals has made no secret of its bid to have more influence over a bloated customer experience. It will close stores, revise retail partnerships and push further into e-commerce in order to control how more of its products are marketed and sold.

The change has meant retail and digital marketers from its global brand marketing team were merged into one unit earlier this year. It was the start of a realization that while Adidas Originals might have fewer retail platforms, those limited experiences could be better for shoppers.

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MILLENNIALS ARE SHEEPLE WHEN IT COMES TO INFLUENCER PRODUCT PLACEMENTS

Influencer marketing is having quite the moment, especially on social media. There's the Instagram-friendly PR mailings — KKW Fragrance's breakable chocolate heart, Chanel Beauty's supersize compact, to name a few — the elaborate unboxing videos, orchestrated product placements and FOMO-inducing travel pics with a coveted outfit or two. With online marketing platforms increasingly on the rise, promoting brands to a group of followers online is easier than ever. Even CGI influencers are making us want to buy clothes and makeup.

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LEVI'S AND KARLA WELCH CELEBRATE THEIR EXCELLENT COLLAB WITH SZA, LAURYN HILL AND MORE

After last year's Hanes x Karla T-shirt line, celebrity stylist Karla Welch is bringing us another collaboration with a classic American basics brand: Levi's. With the brand's pseudo-holiday, "501 Day," coming up on May 20, she reinvented its iconic 501 style as well as several others, including a reversible Sherpa jacket, a boiler suit, a pleated jean, a western shirt and a trucker jacket.

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Retailers' global expansion cools as businesses get smart about opening new stores

Many retailers are being smarter today about opening new stores across the globe, precipitating in a cooling off of international expansion, according to a new report from CBRE.

In surveying 47 countries and 123 cities globally, the commercial real estate service firm determined retailers' growth across boarders into new markets fell 2.9 percent in 2017 from the previous year.

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Power Moves

Porter appoints fashion director
Kay Barron has been promoted to fashion director across the brand's print title and daily digital platform. Barron joined Net-a-Porter in 2013 as fashion features editor. Prior to the company, she held positions at Harper's Bazaar and Grazia.

HBC names Lord & Taylor president
Hudson's Bay Company has appointed Vanessa LeFebvre as president of Lord & Taylor, effective May 22. LeFebvre joins the company from Stitch Fix, where she held the role of vice president of women's buying. She previously held positions at Macy's, Daffy's and TJX.

Refinery29 hires UK fashion editor
The digital publication has tapped Charlotte Gush as its new fashion editor. Previously opinion editor at i-D Magazine, Gush will oversee all fashion content for the UK site, and will report to content director Gillian Orr.

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05.17.18

The British Royals Were the Original Fashion Influencers

What does Kim Kardashian have in common with a 19th-century monarch from the British royal family? Two words: waist trainers. When Kardashian and her sisters began promoting the body shapers a few years ago, sales for corsets reportedly rose 250 percent. The reality star and social media influencer knows that with one Instagram post, she can make or break a trend.

But more than a century before Kardashian’s birth, royals like Queen Alexandra of Great Britain were trendsetters. According to the fashion search engine Lyst, Alexandra had a penchant for shapewear:

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Magazine publishers with video ambitions see YouTube as safer bet than Facebook

Sometimes, being reliable goes a long way — and for smaller publishers looking to grow sustainable video businesses, that means focusing on YouTube.

This month, Inc. and Fast Company, both owned by Mansueto Ventures, will release nine new video series. All were created with YouTube in mind in the sense that the shows are weekly, focus on evergreen topics and run up to eight minutes per episode. The shows include Fast Company’s “You Have to See This,” which covers people and businesses offering experiential services, and Inc.’s “Day In the Life,” which follows entrepreneurs.

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Foursquare Is Trying to Save Net Neutrality Using Location Data

With Congress’ net neutrality vote looming, a last-ditch ad campaign is using location data to guess the savviest constituents of the handful of Senators considered most likely to flip on the issue.

Spearheaded by tech companies Foursquare, Shutterstock, Tinder, Vimeo and Warby Parker, the mobile ads target five states—Colorado, Nevada, Louisiana, Alaska and Florida. The ads focus on citizens whom Foursquare’s tracking tech has determined frequent government buildings, universities and tech or media companies.

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BURBERRY'S TURNAROUND BEGINS TO TAKE SHAPE

Burberry is in the midst of a transitional period: Last year, longtime creative director and (for a shorter time) CEO Christopher Bailey left the company. He was replaced in the CEO role by Marco Gobbetti from Céline, and in the creative role by Riccardo Tisci from Givenchy, who won't show his first collection until September, while product won't hit stores until next year.

In the meantime, the brand has been working to implement new business and retail strategies, as well as to keep product fresh while it awaits Tisci's overhaul. And it's doing okay: Comparable sales rose 3 percent in the fiscal year that ended March 31, according to an earnings report released Wednesday. Still, that's pretty far behind competitors like LVMH and Kering, who both saw double-digit growth in 2017, but turnarounds take time.

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Karl Lagerfeld, Fashion’s Shock Jock

This is a moment of speaking out and freaking out. Today’s off-the-cuff comment is tomorrow’s outrage, and in a world where everyone is a brand, one of the weapons of choice has become the consumer boycott.

Recently Kanye West spurred calls for a boycott of Adidas, his sneaker partner, when he announced in an interview that 400 years of slavery “sounds like a choice.” When Donna Karan put her foot in it on the red carpet after the Weinstein sexual harassment revelations by wondering if women were “asking” for trouble because of how they dressed, a petition was circulated on Care2 for Nordstrom and Macy’s to drop DKNY (even though Ms. Karan had not been associated with the brand since 2015).

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The Store (It Would Seem) Is Not Dead (at Least for Now)

It’s the last day of April, a chill still in the air, and Michael Goldban, head of retail leasing at Brookfield Properties, wants to take a stroll down the pristinely blighted western terminus of Bleecker Street. Wearing Dolce & Gabbana transition glasses and a black blazer (and trailed by a publicist), he’s here to tell me why he’s an optimist about brick-and-mortar retail. We’re passing empty storefront after empty storefront, including one, at No. 359, that is asking $25,000-a-month rent; it features a dozen loaves of Wonder Bread dangling in its window like Pop Art sausages, presumably to attract the attention of whimsy-minded potential tenants. But Goldban sees “opportunity” in the tidy, bougie desolation of this post-Amazon streetscape.

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Hermès Is Primed for the ‘Californication’ of the World, Says CEO

Silicon Valley is a notoriously difficult market for fashion brands to crack. In a region that’s home to tech giants like Apple, Google and Facebook, and where the median income is over $96,000 per annum — the highest in the country, according to the US Census Bureau — cajoling consumers to buy into traditional luxury brands isn’t as easy as one might think.

Perhaps that’s because the standard-issue uniform is still the techie classic — a frayed hoodie and a pair of abused jeans, often worn with sneakers from venture-backed Allbirds. Status is instead symbolised in the form of company valuation. And sometimes, a car: The model-of-the moment, according to market sources, is a Mercedes-Benz "Sprinter" cargo van that has been converted to a custom limousine. (The richest, they say, bike to work.)

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