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The DMA Digest is an edited gathering of information relative to DMA United's business model. With the goal of propelling deal flow and internal awareness, the criteria we use in selecting these topics is reflective of our company philosophy: innovation is born from a polycultural and multi-disciplinarian environment.

Sports retailers should court women and streetwear in 2018

Much-needed changes to merchandising in sports retail are on the horizon, but things will get worse before they get better for retailers and brands, according to a "sneakernomics" report released Wednesday by Matt Powell, vice president and senior industry advisor at The NPD Group.

Retailers and brands have pledged to scale back promotions, which were rampant last year, but that will cost them sales, Powell warned. "Acceptance of this fact is the first step to improvement," Powell said in the report, which was emailed to Retail Dive.

Sports gear and actual athletic wear must take a back seat to more streetwear styles, and women must get their due, considering theirs is the fastest-growing market, Powell also said.

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On Instagram, Nike posts less content but gains more mentions

Instagram is quickly becoming Nike’s go-to social network. The brand uploaded over a third of its social content to its global @nike and London @nikelondon Instagram accounts last year, while more than half went to Twitter and 13 percent went to Facebook, according to marketing agency Share Creative.

People are talking about the brand on Instagram, regardless of whether it has an active presence there. In the U.K. in 2017, for example, most Nike mentions from fans (55 percent) happened on Instagram, where just 35 percent of the brand’s own content was uploaded to the @nike and @nikelondon accounts, revealed Share Creative.

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Cindy Crawford Is Recreating Her Iconic Pepsi Spot for the Super Bowl, 26 Years Later

Cindy Crawford will drink a Pepsi for the Super Bowl again. The supermodel has recreated her iconic 1992 Super Bowl ad with a new 30-second spot for the Big Game on Feb. 4 in Minneapolis. The new version, which will also star her son, Presley Gerber, kicks off yearlong a campaign about “Pepsi Generations” that will feature other icons from Pepsi’s past.

“Since our brand was founded more than a century ago, Pepsi has stood for a youthful spirit and the choice of a new generation,” said Chad Stubbs, vice president of marketing for Pepsi in North America, in a statement. “2018 will be a year to celebrate the past while embracing the future; always reminding consumers to do what they love and have a little fun in their lives.”

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DIGITAL-ONLY MAGAZINE COVERS ARE BRINGING MEDIA BRANDS INTO THE DIGITAL AGE

It's no secret that the magazine world is in what can kindly be described as a state of flux, with publishers constantly being tasked with finding ways to adapt to the shifts in consumer behavior on both print and digital properties. In the face of declining ad revenues and drops in circulation, some titles have decreased frequencies, now repositioning as premium, luxury products with higher-quality paper stock and larger page sizes. But magazines are also keen on boosting audience engagement by generating daily clicks on their websites in an effort to both win over the existing print consumers as well as reach new audiences. Many publications still dedicate real estate in its print products to its respective websites, mostly one or two pages highlighting online-only stories and videos in the hopes of integrating the reader across all platforms.

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Street Style Photographer Nabile Quenum Has Died

Popular street style photographer Nabile Quenum, known by his blog’s name, J’ai Perdu Ma Veste (French for "I lost my jacket") passed away in his Paris apartment over the Christmas holidays from what is believed to be carbon monoxide poisoning, according to French provincial newspaper, Le Journal de Saône-et-Loire.

Born in Paris in 1985, Quenum moved to Ivory Coast in West Africa at the age of four, before returning to the French capital in 2002, where he lived for the last 15 years. “Paris is me, and I am Paris. I feel free here,” he told Le Report, a blog, back in 2014.

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The Power and Problems of Protest Dressing

Protest dressing is rising and rarely has there been a time when so much is being protested. Sexual harassment, racism, gender inequality, workplace injustice, environmental degradation and — of course — politics are all out there on the table, with voices of every persuasion being heard louder than ever. So, as the 2018 red carpet awards season enters full swing, kicked off by last week’s Golden Globes, it was never a question of whether Hollywood would enter the fray, but what form its action would take.

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Tsum Logs 110 Years of Innovation, Transformation

Even for non-Russian speakers, Tsum rolls off the tongue easier than the retailer's initial moniker: Muir and Mirrielees.

One of Eastern Europe's most iconic department stores, it was born in 1867 when two Scottish merchants, Andrew Muir and Archibald Mirrielees, founded their namesake trading company in St. Petersburg. In the 1880s, it moved to Moscow.

The business partners decided to create a large department store along the lines of Whiteleys in London and Le Bon Marché in Paris. They selected Teatranlnaya Square, the site of today's Tsum. It was billed as the first and largest department store in the last days of the Russian Empire, housed in a building erected in 1907 and prized for its European Gothic architecture with elements of Art Nouveau.

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Kering to Distribute Majority of Puma Shares

Kering is spinning off the majority of its holding in Puma in an effort to focus totally on its luxury brands.

The company is distributing 70 percent of its stake in Puma to shareholders, notably Artémis, which will become a "long-term strategic shareholder" of Puma with a 29 perfect stake. Artémis holds a 40.9 percent stake in Kering and Kering will maintain a 16 percent interest in Puma going forward. About 55 percent of Puma's stock will be free-floating on the stock market.

"[Kering's] ambition is to continue to to grow and develop its powerful ensemble of houses in couture, leather goods, jewelry and watches, leveraging on its high cash-flow generation and strong financial position," the company said.

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01.11.18

6 trends that will define mobile marketing in 2018

As 2018 gets underway, it's shaping up to be a big year for mobile marketing, with budgets expected to grow, major mergers and IPOs in the works and the arrival of Harry Potter in our world via an augmented reality (AR) game.

Core challenges will remain, like the proliferation of sub-channels and the need to create more seamless mobile experiences, but marketers are more convinced than ever of mobile's crucial role in activating adjacent channels. With all signs pointing to the growing prevalence of integrated connected experiences moving forward, savvy marketers will double down on digital assistants and AR to gain crucial experience in preparation for the future.

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‘We’re walking the walk’: Advertisers put transparency on the top of their 2018 to-do lists

Advertisers, impatient with the rest of the supply chain’s slow attempts to become more transparent, are taking matters into their own hands.

Marketers talked a lot in 2017 about wanting to know exactly what ads they buy in the murky world of online advertising, yet too few were able to find out. Now, the buy side has become more demanding after much soul-searching over the last year, said Matt Green, the World Federation of Advertisers’ global lead for media and digital marketing.

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PepsiCo Kicks Off Super Bowl Season With a Social-Driven Cooking Show Featuring Former NFL Stars

PepsiCo is drumming up some Super Bowl excitement a few weeks ahead of the Big Game in the form of a social media-driven cooking show staring some NFL stars.

It’s part of the company’s recurring Game Day Grub Match series, a cooking competition that calls for chefs to use PepsiCo products to make unique, creative, Super Bowl-friendly recipes.

“The Super Bowl is always a big moment for PepsiCo and our brands, and Game Day Grub Match allows us to bring our full food and beverage portfolio to life in a fun, engaging way,” Stephen Kalil, PepsiCo executive chef, said.

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AS LOGO MANIA HEATS UP ON THE RUNWAY, VINTAGE RETAILERS REAP SOME OF THE BENEFITS

If there's one universal fashion truth that this past year has proven unequivocally, it's that everything old is, in fact, new again. Trends and styles that many of us thought we'd never consider wearing again have popped up on the runways of the most revered luxury brands, from fanny packs and Juicy Couture sweatsuits to JNCO-inspired jeans and Skechers-like sneakers. And what's interesting about this recent wave of nostalgia perpetuated by designers like Demna Gvasalia at Vetements and Balenciaga and Alessandro Michele at Gucci is that you don't need to shell out designer price points to get the look; many of these items can be scored secondhand. Take fanny packs for example: Ebay sold 57,000 of them last year.

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WHAT COLETTE MEANT TO THE CREATIVE YOUTH OF PARIS

On Dec. 20, 2017, Colette closed its doors for good. In the days leading up to and following, industry insiders across both the world and the internet have been effusively sharing their fondest memories of the Parisian concept shop and its founder, Sarah Andelman. Seen as both a cultural mecca and an educational experience, the Rue Saint Honoré staple's shuttering left the fashion industry (and beyond) disappointed, to say the least. That's because the closure certainly doesn't signify the decline of its relevance. In 2015, 18 years after it hit the retail scene, Forbes called Colette "the trendiest store in the world." Make no mistake: Colette left while it was still at the top of its game.

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Digitising the Sales Associate

For one New England woman, an avid shopper in Boston and Manhattan, her friendships with sales associates at luxury boutiques and upscale department stores go back as far as 20 years. “I have relationships with people that are insane,” she says, remembering one longstanding sales associate from a major department store — known for having the best Chanel at the best prices — who would open for business early on Saturday mornings for her most loyal shoppers.

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Opening Ceremony Considering New Investor

Suitors came calling and nudged Opening Ceremony out into the broader dating market.

Sources said the retailer and designer brand received in-bound interest from would-be investors and is about to start playing the field to see if it's the right time to bring in a new partner.

One person close to the Opening Ceremony situation cautioned that "nothing's been set in stone" and that the process is just beginning.

The outcome could be telling, though.

It's been a tough time for fashion and retail companies with the digital blitzkrieg of e-commerce competition and a consumer yearning for experience over stuff. Deals have been few and far between in designer fashion and so a new investment in Opening Ceremony could help set the tenor in the market. And if a deal ultimately materializes and it looks like a good one, the transaction could clear a path for other designers looking for new backers.

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Victoria Beckham Gears Up for 10-Year Anniversary, Plans London Show

Victoria Beckham plans to mark her decade in business with a series of events, including a 10th anniversary fashion show during London Fashion Week in September.

The big year will start with a change to the way Beckham shows her collections. The company said fall will be showcased via "intimate presentations" at the James Burden Mansion on Manhattan's Upper East Side, recalling the early appointments Beckham held in New York for the then-fledgling business.

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01.10.18

5 ways to win with Gen Z shoppers

The former 'it' generation is getting older. Millennials' purchasing power is on the verge of being surpassed by the next generation of consumer: Generation Z. Forward-thinking retailers are starting to heed the digital preferences and consumer expectations of this burgeoning market.

1. Grab Their Attention
2. Get Them Involved
3. Make It Personal
4. Provide Instant Gratification
5. Streamline the Checkout

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How customer data is guiding Conde Nast’s marketing strategies

Condé Nast is pushing to identify marketing opportunities across its publications, with the help of research initiatives designed to better understand consumer behavior.

The effort is part of Condé Nast Performance Lab, a recently launched program within the media conglomerate’s research and analytics team that collects data and conducts surveys to better inform marketing strategy across publications. After sharing its first study in July — which used neuroscience to show the efficacy of sponsored posts — the group revealed its latest findings, showing that early adopters of style trends are also more likely to become technology trendsetters.

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Brands are capitalizing on the trend of stressed adults coloring on their phones

Two years after adult coloring became a trend, brands are taking notice. Companies like Lionsgate, Hasbro and Kellogg’s are buying up ad space inside apps, creating their own coloring apps and designing branded coloring pages.

For Lionsgate’s film “Wonder,” the movie studio went to coloring app Recolor to run a three-month campaign that features a banner ad at the top promoting the available branded coloring pages. When a user taps the banner, a branded page appears with four coloring pages and the movie trailer. Hasbro took a similar approach in Recolor for its October film “My Little Pony.” In September, Kellogg’s ran a campaign featuring 3-D designs of Tony the Tiger and Pop-Tarts that users can color in Recolor. And Marvel made its own coloring app, called Marvel: Color Your Own, featuring characters from its movies.

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Listen Up! 5 Voice Trends That Will Define Advertising and Marketing in 2018

The explosion of voice search. An upsurge in podcasting. The emergence of chatbots. Many pundits saw 2017 as the year of voice in marketing. And that shows no signs of abating in 2018.

With audio becoming a key component of the digital marketing mix, brand marketers will need to stay on top of the trends taking place in voice markets. Each year, Voices.com, a global online marketplace for voiceover talent, identifies what’s been happening in audio, based on insights from its internal data and input from nearly a thousand creative professionals. Here are the key findings from its 2018 Trends Report.

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GAL GADOT IS THE NEW FACE OF REVLON

It's already been a big day of celebrity beauty news, with David Beckham announcing his men's grooming line for L'Oréal — and now Revlon is starting the year off with its own star-centric announcement. The legacy cosmetics company revealed on Tuesday that Gal Gadot, star of "Wonder Woman," is its latest Global Brand Ambassador. Gadot will front Revlon's new "Live Boldly" campaign, which will launch later this month, though the brand already debuted a video from it on Instagram.

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Tory Burch on Philanthropy, Innovation and the Changing Consumer

Since launching her self titled label in 2004, Tory Burch has built a billion-dollar business from what began as a modest accessible luxury clothing and accessories line. With social responsibility and innovation at the core of company's beliefs, Burch now has more than 3000 stockists and 150 boutiques worldwide.

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Gucci Garden Opens in Florence

Gucci Garden is the latest mark Alessandro Michele is leaving on the Italian brand -- and a remarkable one at that.

Gucci's creative director has overhauled the label's museum, first inaugurated in 2011 under his predecessor Frida Giannini, turning it into something altogether different that clearly reflects his creativity and imagination. Gucci Garden, to be officially inaugurated on Tuesday evening, coinciding with the opening of men's wear trade show Pitti Uomo, is located in the historic Palazzo della Mercanzia in Florence dating back to 1337, a few steps away from the Uffizi Gallery on PIazza della Signoria. The medieval location is in sync with Michele's aesthetic and the designer has seamlessly blended his own style with that of the storied venue, whose facade is lit up by a giant neon eye artwork.

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01.09.18

NYC is marketers' playground as out-of-home experiences swing high

New York City residents and tourists were treated to a flurry of fun and often unusual brand installations last year that stoked the senses and gave marketers a way to build more tangible relationships — a crucial factor in an age when many young consumers like millennials are favoring experiences over products. As temperatures rebound from their current chill, more such sponsored activities are likely to bloom in 2018, alongside spring's flowers, to provide a roadmap of where experiential marketing is heading next.

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How Volkswagen is using artificial intelligence for ad buying decisions

Cars aren’t the only thing Volkswagen wants to automate. Artificial intelligence is managing the brand’s media buys in Germany and proving to be more effective than its media agency.

Whenever Volkswagen uses the recommendations from Blackwood Seven, a Danish media agency that uses AI and predictive analytics to forecast ad spend decisions, it sells more cars than it would have if it had gone with its media agency’s recommendation, according to Lutz Kothe, the head of marketing and PR for Volkswagen’s passenger cars. Kothe said his team uses Blackwood Seven’s algorithm to buy the right ads based on sales.

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THE NITTY-GRITTY PROCESS OF CHANGING A FASHION BRAND'S LOGO

It's not yet been three months since Coach Inc., the owner and operator of such accessible-luxury brands as Kate Spade New York, Stuart Weitzman and, of course, Coach, renamed itself "Tapestry Inc." But the company has quickly buried Coach Inc. from its signage, business cards and press releases, replacing it with Tapestry's friendly serif font and canary yellow palette. Tapestry, perhaps, has the legs to become the first great American fashion conglomerate. Coach Inc., for whatever reason, did not.

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CNN’s Samantha Barry Named Glamour’s Editor-in-Chief

The new editor-in-chief of US Glamour is CNN social media executive producer Samantha Barry, BoF has learned.

Condé Nast, the publisher of Glamour, confirmed the appointment.

The news follows an extensive search that lasted longer than anticipated. In September, editor-in-chief Cindi Leive announced she would step down from the role after leading the magazine for 16 years.

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Rick Owens Reveals Birkenstock Collaboration

Rick Owens doesn't shy away from subversion, so in some ways it makes perfect sense that the designer has teamed with Birkenstock, the German footwear brand best known for being fashionably unfashionable.

On March 16, Birkenstock's travelling mobile pop-up space, The Box, will park outside the Rick Owens store on La Brea Avenue in Los Angeles. To mark the occasion, the designer has reinterpreted three classic styles in four different fabrications, including felt, pony hair and full-grain leather. The pop-up will also feature styles from the comfort-driven, obsession-inducing brand's main line, as well as select Rick Owens ready-to-wear, furniture and accessories.

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How Forums Paved The Way for streetwear

Somewhere between the intersection of word-of-mouth, face-to-face interactions and instant social media gratification existed forums — the now extinct mode of communication for streetwear enthusiasts. The perfect vehicle for communication and community building peaked in the early 2000’s as the internet was still free from the grasps of Facebook, Reddit, Instagram and Snapchat. Even the etymology of HYPEBEAST was birthed in forums, as the term was first used on NikeTalk before becoming the platform we know now.

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Karl Lagerfeld Inks Denim License With Italy’s Giada SpA

Karl Lagerfeld, who has been partial to skinny jeans for more than a decade, is getting his own denim line.

The fashion brand has inked a multiyear license agreement with Italy's Giada SpA for the production and distribution of its new Karl Lagerfeld Denim collection in Europe, the Middle East and Africa. The first collection for men and women is to debut at retail in spring 2019.

"The launch of Karl Lagerfeld Denim is an exciting, high-potential addition to our brand's diverse product portfolio," said Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld. He called Giada a "leading producer and marketer of premium denim production, and we are fascinated by their love and product details. We look forward to working with them to build this business."

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David Beckham to Unveil Men’s Grooming Brand House 99

David Beckham has a new goal: to score in the burgeoning men's grooming market with House 99, a brand he created with L'Oréal that's due out starting in February.

It is the first time the British soccer star-turned-entrepreneur is launching his own beauty label and also marks the first time in many years that L'Oréal has kicked off a freestanding brand from scratch. Generally when the company adds to its portfolio, a totally new brand is either created under license or acquired.

The sportsman brims with excitement about House 99, which he hopes will spawn a community of guys. He was hands-on for every stage of its development, finding the product-naming process "a real challenge."

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01.08.18

Fiji Water Is Using the Golden Globes to Kick Off an Initiative Supporting Female Directors

Drink water, snap a photo and help up-and-coming female directors? That’s the proposition Fiji Water has set up for stars during tonight’s Golden Globes and the awards season at large.

For every star photographed sipping Fiji Water during tonight’s Golden Globes red carpet—and upcoming awards shows like the Critics’ Choice Awards, the Screen Actors Guild Awards and the Film Independent Spirit Awards, where Fiji Water is the official water—the brand will donate $1,000 (up to $100,000) to the American Film Institute’s Directing Workshop for Women. As part of its new program, One Sip Forward, Fiji Water is looking to use its red carpet position at awards ceremonies to make a statement about female directors.

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Speed-to-market: How luxury brands are picking up the pace of production cycles

In luxury fashion, speed matters more than ever.

Labels like Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Coach, Helmut Lang, Burberry and Rag & Bone — all brands that could once call the shots around trends and fashion cycles — are adopting new strategies focused on increased flexibility and faster-paced production windows, in order to adapt to increasing competition and an in-control customer.

“Speed is everything right now,” said Karin Tracy, the head of fashion, luxury and beauty industries at Facebook. “For luxury brands, whoever is the fastest right now will have competitive advantage, full stop. They need to step out of the comfort zone of perfection, think about how to move fast and build things to let them do so.”

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EVERY LOOK FROM THE 2018 GOLDEN GLOBES RED CARPET

We're only a week into 2018 and best-dressed heavyweights are already making their way down the red carpet to kick off the year — and awards season — with a chic bang. The Golden Globe Awards mark the first major celebrity style moment of the year, with television and film stars lining up to receive praise for their performances outfitted in the finest gowns. But this year's event is markedly different, sartorially speaking: In support of the "Time's Up" movement to combat sexual harassment and fight for gender equality in the industry, most of the stars chose to wear black for the occasion. Celebrities and their stylists certainly rose to the challenge, coming up with an array of inspired, impactful looks, even without color.

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Off-White Launches a 'More Affordable' Collection

Off-White has launched a “more affordable” capsule collection. Called "For All," the unisex line — which will be available from today onwards at all 11 Off-White stores around the world, including those in New York, Hong Kong and Sydney — includes four graphic T-shirts ($95) and four hoodies ($170) decked out in the popular streetwear-inflected fashion label’s signature black and white diagonal stripes and quotation marks. In comparison, T-shirts for Off-White retail between $300 and $580, with hoodies reaching $800.

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WHY ISN'T STREETWEAR JUST CALLED "FASHION"?

Just when everyone thinks streetwear can’t get any bigger, it does.

For the last few years, streetwear’s rise has been one of the big storylines in fashion. In 2017, its symbolic high point came when Supreme sold a stake that reportedly valued the company at $1 billion (paywall) to the private-equity firm Carlyle Group. It was a staggering valuation for a company known for selling hoodies, t-shirts, and irreverent ephemera, like a logo-stamped brick and branded nunchucks.

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Men’s Fashion Month: The Names to Know

As an increasing number of fashion houses combine their womenswear and menswear shows, choosing to present during the livelier womenswear season instead, the official menswear schedules have a sudden dearth of megawatt brands. London is now without Burberry and J.W. Anderson, Paris without Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, Milan without Gucci, and New York without Calvin Klein and Coach.

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Varvatos to Show During Grammys Weekend in New York

John Varvatos is going it alone next season.

Instead of showing during New York Fashion Week in February, the designer will present his line off-calendar on Friday night, Jan. 26 -- the start of Grammys weekend in New York. The Grammy Awards are returning to Manhattan on Jan. 28 for the first time since 2003.

Varvatos, whose line is known for its rock 'n' roll sensibility and who uses music stars in his advertising campaigns, said he had planned to throw a party that weekend anyway and when the dates for the men's portion of NYFW were shifted a week to coincide with women's, he decided to do his show at the same time.

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