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The DMA Digest is an edited gathering of information relative to DMA United's business model. With the goal of propelling deal flow and internal awareness, the criteria we use in selecting these topics is reflective of our company philosophy: innovation is born from a polycultural and multi-disciplinarian environment.

Depop Is Yet Another Resale App Opening Physical Stores

As traditional retail struggles with store closures, sinking sales, and bankruptcies, the secondhand market is booming. Shoppers spent $18 billion on secondhand clothes in 2016, and the sector is expected to hit $33 billion by 2021.

Part of the reason resale has enjoyed such an upsurge is because of companies like The Real Real, Tradesy, ThredUp, and Poshmark — all digital startups that make shopping for secondhand online easy and enticing. The natural next step for this sector has been to open stores, a move The Real Real and ThredUp have already made. Now Depop, the British resale shopping app, is opening stores of its own.

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Netflix Created a Clean, Custom Font That Could Save the Company Millions

Netflix has developed a new bespoke font called Netflix Sans that is clean, functional, subtly inspired by the brand’s famous logo—and perhaps most important of all, economical.

One of the design leads, Noah Nathan, posted about the project on his website. He says the new font is meant to serve “both display and functional purposes,” but there is a serious economic component at play, too.

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You would assume a career history that includes both serving as Anna Wintour's executive assistant and producing the Met Gala would set one up to conquer just about anything. That's certainly proven to be the case for Sylvana Ward Durrett, the 14-year Vogue alumna who — together with her co-founder, fellow Vogue veteran Luisana Mendoza Roccia — launched the luxury childrenswear e-boutique Maisonette in March 2017. But Ward Durrett's resume didn't come together like some form of high-gloss magic, of course. Instead, she's credited her success to a cocktail of work ethic and a keen sense of business savvy, both of which are traits she acquired in her time in Wintour's office.

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Why retailers are prioritizing private label

Macy's CEO Jeff Gennette kicked off ShopTalk with a keynote that, among other things, reaffirmed a goal to boost private label up to 40% of the assortment. As the company transforms the business, it, like many others, has discovered that exclusivity is more important than ever.

On a panel moderated by Retail Dive Senior Editor Laura Heller on Monday, Molly Langenstein, general business manager of Ready To Wear at Macy's, further outlined the five big reasons for the company's private label push: Declining store traffic, increased consumer interest in off price, competitors growing private brands to protect market share, Amazon focusing on its own apparel lines and "retailization" — or more direct-to-consumer businesses.

To Langenstein, the strategy is all about honing in on consumer lifestyles, fashion, consumer insights and speeding up supplier innovation.

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Galeries Lafayette Turns to Art and Gourmet Food to Lure Shoppers

France's chic department store Galeries Lafayette is betting on an art foundation and an Italian gourmet food hall in Paris to help differentiate its brand from bricks-and-mortar rivals and e-commerce competitors.

The French capital is attracting a wave of investment into luxury stores and premium food halls as retailers seek to capitalise on a rebound in a tourism industry that was badly hurt by a wave of militant attacks in 2015 and 2016.

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Bill Cunningham Left Behind a Secret Memoir

The beloved fashion and society photographer Bill Cunningham, who worked for The New York Times for nearly 40 years, left behind an enormous archive valued at $1 million. He also, his family discovered with some surprise upon his death in 2016, left a written memoir.

For the devotees of Mr. Cunningham who faithfully followed or appeared in his “On the Street” column (“We all get dressed for Bill,” Anna Wintour has said), this discovery amounts to a major archaeological revelation.

“It seems so unexpected,” said Christopher Richards, an editor at Penguin Press who acquired the book at auction. “He really didn’t divulge anything about his life to his friends and his colleagues. He was so private. I think it was a shock.”

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Inside Dapper Dan and Gucci’s Harlem Atelier

From the outside, the brownstone in Central Harlem looks like any other building on the block. But enter through the ground-floor door, pass through the red velvet curtains and you will find yourself among roaring jaguars, long-tailed dragons and hip-hop greats from the ’80s and ’90s, including LL Cool J, Salt-N-Pepa, Rakim and Eric B, the Fat Boys and Jay-Z.

Welcome to the appointment-only atelier of the couturier Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan, and the luxury label Gucci. Their joint venture opened in January, following years of mutual admiration and imitation.

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EXCLUSIVE: Yves Bougon Named President of Condé Nast France

Yves Bougon has been named president of Condé Nast France, and his appointment is effective from May 7, WWD has learned. An announcement is expected today.

Bougon joins Condé Nast France from Hearst Fujingaho, one of Japan’s leading multimedia companies, where he currently serves as chief executive officer and representative director, based in Tokyo. He will replace Xavier Romatet who, as reported, is leaving the publisher.

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Nordstrom Ends Buyout Talks With Founding Family Over Price

Nordstrom Inc.’s board is ending talks with the company’s founding family over a proposal to take the department-store chain private, saying the two sides couldn’t agree on a price.

The move follows a rejected proposal earlier this month that would have valued Nordstrom at about $8.4 billion, or $50 a share. The board, which formed a special committee to evaluate a possible transaction, warned the would-be buyers to quickly increase their offer or move on.

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The King Of Hypebeasts Returns With a New Capsule Collection

Every collaboration Virgil Abloh touches seems to turn to gold. The Off-White designer’s first Nike collaboration is currently reselling for thousands on eBay, and Abloh’s previous capsule with Warby Parker sold out almost instantly. Expect no different when it comes to his latest venture, this time with Sunglass Hut.

The capsule collection, which quietly debuted during the fall 2018 show, includes three unisex styles: a slim ’90s-inspired rectangle frame, a curved cat-eye, and a larger oval frame style for those who refuse to submit to the siren call of tiny sunglasses. All three styles will come in the tortoiseshell and black colorways, but of course we have a special affinity for the millennial pink pair.

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Kering and Richemont: Why a Mega-Merger Makes Sense

Sustaining growth and maintaining a competitive edge in today’s increasingly complex luxury goods industry requires more than simply hitting the right fashion notes. There comes a time when even big-thinking companies need to think bigger in order to secure and optimise their achievements. Three crucial factors come to mind: scale, category leadership and a conglomerate structure. Size helps optimise fixed costs, leadership in multiple categories brings stability and a strong portfolio of brands makes it easier to attract and nurture talent. LVMH has all of this in spades.

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Adidas Wants to Somehow Make Everything From Recycled Plastic

Yesterday, Adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted went on CNBC to discuss the company’s recent financial performance and to drop this enticing nugget: Adidas sold 1 million pairs of shoes made from recycled plastic last year. That’s significant, considering that the brand only started marketing recycled ocean plastic sneakers a few years ago, but TheCurrent reports that the brand wants to clear a much higher bar. Adidas intends to use repurposed ocean plastic in all of its products by 2024.

If you, too, are like, hhhhwhat, that’s insane... yes. Adidas exec Eric Liedtke shared that “moonshot” goal on a SXSW panel earlier this week, adding that the brand expects to sell another 5 million pairs of recycled sneakers this year. Still, Adidas makes 450 million pairs of shoes annually. It’s going to have to ramp up its recycling capabilities in a huge way to get there.

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How Magazines Can Make Money from E-Commerce

In January, as the “bomb cyclone” pummelled toward the East Coast, where it would dump half a foot of snow on New York City and plunge temperatures to ten degrees below normal, the Cut’s editors knew what was really on every New Yorker’s mind: shopping.

As soon as the term “bomb cyclone” was coined, sending the city into a panic and trending accordingly on social media, the Cut’s senior market editor Diana Tsui and her team started curating shopping posts. “We’re like, OK, it’s going to be cold, our team is freaking out about it, we’re all really nervous about the weather, what do we need?” Winter coats and boots were conveniently on post-holiday sale, along with, Tsui noticed, Uniqlo’s Heattech apparel. One of her team members curated a selection of Heattech items for a post that ended up being one of the Cut’s most read stories of the day.

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Glossier's customer obsession is about stirring up conversation

Customers don't just need to feel heard, retailers need to actually listen to what they're saying and promote information sharing — something the $4.3 billion beauty market has long neglected if you ask Emily Weiss.

The CEO of upstart beauty brand Glossier started her company three and half years ago from her popular product review blog Into the Gloss (which still exists today). In a keynote presentation at the ShopTalk conference on Tuesday, Weiss told attendees that the industry can no longer afford to shun social media and keep the power within brands.

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6 Ways Social Media Can Enhance Your Adventure Travel

“Everyone wants to plan ahead and book something they read about on social media. Whatever happened to the excitement of just buying a plane ticket to a place without any reservations and then seeing where travel takes you?” asks Erik Trinidad, host and creator of travel web series Plausibly Ridiculous.

No one has the time to be spontaneous anymore. With an average of 10 vacation days per year, planning is essential.

Although social media has been blamed for ruining everything from independent travel to dinner conversations, platforms like Facebook, Instagram and even Tinder, when used strategically, can actually make travel better.

Here are six ways to use social media to have more meaningful adventure travel experiences.

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Google to prioritize retailer search results — for a fee

Google has been selling search ads to retailers for a long time, and more recently has been forging deeper partnerships as it tries to fulfill its own shopping ambitions. For example, late last year, Google teamed with both Walmart and Target to allow consumers to shop the retailers' sites through Google Assistant and Google Express.

Shopping Actions goes much further by raising the profile of participating retailers and their products on Google searches, and by allowing shoppers integrated shopping across multiple Google platforms, along with loyalty program links.

For Google, and its retailer partners, this move is all about Amazon. Both have suffered at the hands of the e-commerce giant. Amazon has beaten Google and all other traditional search engines as the starting place for shopping searches, and has forced disruption throughout the retail sector, everywhere from department stores to apparel retailers.

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A Glance Unlocks All in Apple’s Wild and Colorful High School Number

Apple is out with a new ad for the iPhone X, and it’s a blast.

In the minute-long spot, a high schooler has a field day when she realizes she can unlock anything, just by looking at it.

Designed to promote the model’s FaceID feature, which let users unlock the X just by looking at it, thanks to facial recognition, the spot starts with the phone itself. She points her face at the screen, and its padlock symbol slides open.

Before long, she’s sending rows of lockers flying open by glancing at them, and cartwheeling through hallways surrounded by a storm of paper homework and colorful manila folders. She soon graduates to the art room, snapping her head back and forth to crack cabinets and drawers, creating rainbow clouds of pigment (think Holi) and splatters of paint (think lazy Pollock).

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How Mom Bloggers Helped Create Influencer Marketing

It’s Women’s History Month, an annual recognition of the many women who have made contributions to history, culture and society, and I find myself thinking about the impact women have had in the marketing space, particularly in recent years with the rise of influencer marketing.

This vibrant, growing industry was essentially built by women out of a desire for community.

When blogs began gaining popularity, an explosion of blogging-specific resources and platforms soon followed. In retrospect, we see this as the dawn of “Mommy blogging,” now considered an archaic, borderline-offensive, catch-all term for any woman who has written about parenthood (or even those who have never written about parenting, but just happen to be a mother).

Many of these women spent years gaining access to corporate boardrooms or securing law degrees before becoming parents. Suddenly, they were home with young children and feeling isolated, often without the kind of family support on which our mothers and grandmothers relied to teach parenting skills. Aided by advancements in technology, these women began creating online spaces where they could express their joys and frustrations, get help and forge connections in new digital villages.

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Facebook Exec Addresses Reports of Data Misuse by Cambridge Analytica

Facebook vice president of global marketing solutions Carolyn Everson reiterated the social media firm’s stance made earlier Monday about the care it takes to protect its users’ privacy following allegations last week that a data firm tied to President Trump had misused the data of some 50 million users.

Facebook first posted to its blog Friday that it had suspended Strategic Communication Laboratories and its data firm Cambridge Analytica from Facebook. The company said in its post University of Cambridge professor Aleksandr Kogan was found to have passed data collected from Facebook users who downloaded his app, called thisisyourdigitallife, to Cambridge Analytica, a violation of the social networking site’s policies.

Facebook on Monday confirmed it would conduct a forensic audit to further investigate the matter.

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At SXSW 2018 in Austin, Nicolette Mason, a fashion blogger-turned-influencer and co-founder of plus-size brand Premme, along with Chicago-based attorney and digital influencer Blake Gifford and ShopStyle's Director of Business Development Hilary Sloan, participated in a panel discussion on "Resistance & Disruption Through Diversity & Data," which also explored the practice of activism among influencers. As these individuals continue to have growing lucrative platforms and partnerships with brands, social responsibility can't be ignored. And if all parties involved aim to practice inclusivity, everyone benefits.

"There is a lot of power as influencers. We sometimes give too much credit to brands and not enough to ourselves and the work that we do, the content that we create and the number of people we represent as individuals in this conversation," said Mason, who's been adopting Frances McDormand's famous two words from her Oscars acceptance speech — "inclusion rider" — into her own work.

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Kim Jones Confirmed at Dior Homme as Kris Van Assche Exits

Kris Van Assche is stepping down as artistic director of Dior Homme after 11 years at the brand. Kim Jones, who exited his role as men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton in January, is set to succeed Van Assche.

Jones’ appointment is the first big move by Pietro Beccari, the newly installed chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, who joined the brand from Fendi in February. Jones will present his first collection for Dior Homme next June, during Paris men's fashion week.

"I am delighted to welcome Kim Jones at Dior Homme. He will benefit from the support of the teams and from the 'savoir-faire' of the Ateliers to create an elegant men's wardrobe both classic and anchored in contemporary culture. I am confident that he will continue to further develop Dior Homme on a global scale,” said Beccari. “I thank Kris Van Assche for contributing to the amazing growth of Dior Homme by creating an elegant and contemporary silhouette for men. He wrote an important chapter in the history of Dior Homme and played a key role in its development.”

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Top 10 Campaigns of the Season

As social media becomes increasingly saturated, brands are vying for attention through more creative, conceptual — and most importantly, clickable — seasonal campaigns. Such is the case for Spring/Summer 2018, where fashion houses big and small took creative risks with their advertising to cut through the noise.

In Alessandro Michele's quest to push boundaries, Gucci's "Utopian Fantasy" campaign was fully illustrated by Spanish artist Ignasi Monreal, whose imagination knows no bounds in this surreal mish-mash of mermaids, tigers and knights, all wearing Gucci clothing, eyewear and accessories.

Balenciaga tackled the downside of celebrity with a campaign shot paparazzi-style, while Calvin Klein enlisted photographer Willy Vanderperre and a cast of 20 models to bring Raf Simons' sinister vision of Americana to life in an abandoned barn.

Spring/Summer 2018, the final bow for Celine's Phoebe Philo, saw the designer off with a campaign depicting a poolside Binx Walton, lensed by Juergen Teller. Also shot by the German photographer was Burberry's campaign —awash with the recently reclaimed Burberry check and pops of neon, released in the lead up to Bailey's departure after 17 years at the house.

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Consumers slow to pick up on voice-assisted purchasing

It takes time for anticipated uses of new technologies to catch on, especially those like e-commerce that require the customer to surrender sensitive information like payment or account numbers. For instance, a recent survey found that 70% of consumers are unwilling to use Amazon Key, a delivery service that would allow couriers unescorted into homes.

So too with voice assisted devices like Amazon's Echo, Google Home and Apple's HomePod, as well as smartwatches. Many are still hesitating to use them for browsing, and more aren't comfortable making purchases with them. For the smartwatches, the small screen size and limited functionality relative to other devices may be a concern. For voice-assisted devices, there's a certain comfort level many people still haven't achieved with engaging personalities like Alexa and Siri.

With the Amazon devices, one issue may be they are so easy to order from, consumers are afraid of making a mistake, or having a child or other electronic device issue the "buy" command. The Episerver study said dissatisfaction with the buying experience turned some users off. Of the shoppers who don't want to try new technologies a second time, 51% said it's because the technologies did not improve their experiences.

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Nike takes gamification to the next level with sneaker try-on game

Wieden + Kennedy and Nike have been playing around — literally — with gamification since at least 2002, and the latest effort in Chinese stores is taking it to the next level. It's part of a wider effort by many retailers to leverage playful tech like VR to entice customers.

"VR will likely remain as the 'icing on the cake' for most applications, and in shopping it will most likely be constrained to an in-store experience for the foreseeable future," Coresight Research CEO Deborah Weinswig wrote in a recent report. "Yet, as consumers are looking for more experiential shopping experiences and gamification has proven to be an effective tool to attract and retain customers, we expect more retailers to experiment and deploy VR shopping solutions in 2017."

Nike, like Under Armour, is under pressure as Adidas soars of late, and is staking much of its growth overseas. By geography, on average over the next five years, the company expects to grow North America sales in the mid-single digit range, Europe, Middle East and Africa in the mid-to-high single digit range, Greater China in the low to mid-teen range, and Asia Pacific and Latin America in the high single-digit to low double-digit range.

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10 Brand Activations That Weren’t to Be Missed at This Year’s SXSW

Each year, brand marketers come to South by Southwest in Austin, Texas, to showcase immersive activations for the festival’s thousands of attendees. This year, brands brought their best experiential marketing efforts, though it did feel a little more strategic and calculated than in the past. Check out the big activations below, from HBO’s Westworld to Beautyrest’s concert:

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Chanel Sues What Goes Around Comes Around Over Product Sales

Chanel isn’t pleased with its sought-after bags and accessories being such a big part of another company’s business.

The luxury brand is suing popular high-end vintage retailer What Goes Around Comes Around for trademark infringement, claiming it’s not only unintentionally sold counterfeit goods on occasion, but that it’s “gone out of its way to create an association with Chanel,” which does not exist. The brand added that it has “explicitly refused WGACA’s requests to enter into such an agreement,” in a complaint filed Wednesday in New York.

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Makeup Brand Glossier Pops Up With Lipstick and Fried Chicken in the Mission

Fried chicken and lipstick typically don’t travel in the same circles, with makeup and food keeping their distance on retail shelves. Until now, that is, with the launch of Glossier at Rhea’s Cafe, a unique month-long pop-up at the Mission cafe mingling food and beauty products.

As a brand, Glossier has mostly operated in an online capacity, with the recent addition of a showroom in New York. Now the company expanding its reach from cult online-only status to real life activations, like the one at Rheas. In the past, they’ve done collaborations with NYC food destinations like Morgenstern’s Ice Cream and Momofuku Milk Bar, but never anything quite as in-depth as what they’ve brought to San Francisco. According to Glossier, the team came across the cafe while scoping restaurants for the pop-up, consumed everything on the menu, and immediately reached out.

For Rhea’s Cafe owner James Choi, it’s both weird and exciting. “To put it mildly, I thought it was insane when they first approached me,” said Choi, who wasn’t familiar with the brand until his female friends weighed in. “But that’s how creative people think. And I thought, ‘why not?’”

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How Adidas is using apps to fuel its e-commerce ambitions

Adidas is using apps to meet its goals for e-commerce sales.

A focus on Amazon and online retailers drove €1.5 billion ($1.9 billion) in online sales in 2017 for Adidas, a 57 percent increase on what it made in 2016, according to Adidas’ latest earnings report. Speaking to investors on March 14, Adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted said it is on track to hit €4 billion ($4.9 billion) by 2020. Hitting that target, however, will be as dependent on the likes of Amazon and Foot Locker as on Adidas’ owned channels, particularly its apps.

Apps, according to Adidas, are a way to strike a direct relationship with consumers. In other words, they establish an online business that doesn’t require the company to pay a tax to Amazon to sell its products. Rather, Adidas can use its ever-widening portfolio of apps to push rarer — and therefore more expensive — products, while using Amazon and other online retailers to sell its cheaper products. Adidas and rival Nike are in a race to evolve their distribution channels and manufacturing technologies in order to get their products to market faster, which could also safeguard their businesses from brick-and-mortar killer Amazon.

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Spike Jonze and FKA twigs Made a Jaw-Dropping Short Film for Apple’s HomePod

Spike Jonze has long been deeply embedded in the dance world.

He explored movement in everything from the Fatboy Slim videos he helped to choreograph in the late ’90s, to Levi’s “Crazy Legs” commercial a few years later, all the way up to the famous 2016 Kenzo film he directed starring Margaret Qualley—which was a collaboration with Kenzo creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who also happen to run the design label Opening Ceremony, for whom Jonze recently directed another stunning dance project, “Changers,” starring Lakeith Stanfield and Mia Wasikowska.

Now, it’s Apple’s turn to call on Jonze’s genius for dance pieces.

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After a successful debut at New York Fashion Week in collaboration with Pyer Moss, Reebok announced another exciting partnership on Thursday — this time with Gal Gadot. The actress and "Wonder Woman" star will front the global fitness lifestyle brand's "Be More Human" campaign, featuring its women's training collection. Gadot joins Reebok's ever-expanding roster of female ambassadors, which includes Gigi Hadid, Ariana Grande and Victoria Beckham.

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On Thursday evening, the Council of Fashion Designers of America unveiled the designers and brands in the running for the 2018 edition of the CFDA Fashion Awards. The nominees and honorees were revealed on the organization's Instagram feed as a digital-only campaign featuring designers, models and influencers from within the American fashion industry, including Candice Huffine, Martha Hunt, Young Paris, Brandon Maxwell, Todd Snyder, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim (of Monse and Oscar de la Renta) and Irene Neuwirth. Some of the special announcements were shot at the Brooklyn Museum, which will serve as the official venue for the 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards hosted by "Insecure" actress Issa Rae. This is the first time in its 37-year history that the awards show will take place outside of the New York borough of Manhattan.

Read on for the 2018 CFDA honorees and nominees, and stay tuned for the big event taking place on June 4.

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Power Moves

Guillaume Henry exits Nina Ricci
Nina Ricci's creative director Guillaume Henry has left the French fashion house after three years at the creative helm. His final collection for the label was Autumn/Winter 2018. Nina Ricci’s in-house studio will design the next collections while it searches for Henry’s successor.

Tatler names creative director
Tom Usher has been appointed Tatler’s creative director. He joins the title from PR and marketing agency PMK BNC, where he held the position of digital creative director. He has also held art director roles at Harper’s Bazaar UK, Marie Claire and Arena magazine.

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Top 10 Campaigns of the Season

As social media becomes increasingly saturated, brands are vying for attention through more creative, conceptual — and most importantly, clickable — seasonal campaigns. Such is the case for Spring/Summer 2018, where fashion houses big and small took creative risks with their advertising to cut through the noise.

Continue Reading